bonsai garden | garden tree

Make Bonsai with Scissors

2009-07-18T04:44:00.000-07:00

Scissors is one of bonsai tools, If you want to make bonsai with scissors, your scissors should be a very sturdy pair with as narrow a point as you can find, the same goes for your wire cutters. The wire cutters serve a dual purpose, both for wire and tree trimming. The wire needs to be copper as it has a few specific properties I will mention later, but choose several thicknesses and at least a small amount of about 1/4" wide flat copper for bands. Want to make your tree grow thicker quicker? Simple! Place a loose band of the flat copper at it's base. This causes it to grow thicker quicker! Keep an eye on it because you don't need a band mark, all you have to do is loosen it a bit when it gets tight, or remove it altogether.

Please wire the branches with differing thicknesses of copper wire, keep a close eye on them as they could scar the tree. I have found a few really fun ways to create some interesting shapes. One is to set it so that it has some sort of shelving above it, balcony rails work well, turn the tree so that the branch you want to grow is pushed by the shelve and leave it there for at least 2 weeks. Windows and walls work great for this method as well. Stringing and staking are two more of my favorite, non-wire methods. With some string (and nylons work great for no scarring) you can slowly pull branches in any direction you want. To get really dramatic results, combine this with a stake, either inside or outside of the pot. One easy way that I like to do is to tie a nylon loosely on a branch and Duct Tape it to something outside the pot, or to the pot itself!

Please let the branches grow as long as they want on the side you choose to keep them. I like to let them grow about 1-2" apart and about 6 to 7 branches. Once they have gotten long enough (at least 3-4 inches) the fun starts ;). Take your tree, and a few weeks before the final planting, use the "string and stake" method described above and on the non-branched side, bend it as far as you can with out breaking it or pulling it out of the ground. A bit of wire at the base can help stabilize the direction you want to keep it as well. When you remove the wire and or string and it does not spring back, it is ready. Remove it from the pot, knock most of the dirt off the roots then strip the bark off the non branched side of the tree. You will need a long style of pot, I have found a lot of nice styles in the ceramic serving dish sections at thrift stores. Lay it out in the pot, is it deep enough to bury half the trunk and most of the roots? If so you are ready to proceed. Next, go ahead and put dirt in the pot. Don't fill it but maybe halfway and rest your tree in it to get a feel of space. At this point you will need to trim the roots almost level to the ground. Make sure at least half the roots are still there! Now, on the stripped side of your tree, give it a scrape to open it fresh, dip your finger in root hormone powder and run that down the stripped side. Place the tree gently in the pot and gently put dirt around it until it is about half up the trunk. Use some pea gravel to hold the dirt still and gently water. This is pretty drastic so expect a bit of shock. You should see some return to health in 2-3 days. You will leave it like this until you see some new growth occur. Once that has happened you have rooting. At this point you have two options. The least damaging to the tree is to take it back up, and bend it a bit here and there to create a staggered effect. You can now bury the tree until all you see is the new tree trunks. My way? Cut it apart, put a bit of root hormone powder on each cut, and just plant them around in various spots in the pot. The reason I use one tree to do this is it gives the appearance of a natural grove, all very similar trees in one spot. They will have the same growth rate and same characteristics so you can judge future growth.

Are the leaves on you little tree just too big for you? Here is a good one. It seems like torture, and maybe it is but it works great! Twice a year, cut half the leaves off (early spring and late summer work best). I like to do it to every other leaf. The next step would be to cut every leaf left in half. A year or two of this and the leaves grow smaller. Now and then one will insist on growing, but just cut it, it will only be one or two!

Also of topiary befit, you can do many of these things to any larger tree or shrub as well. The thing to keep in mind is any large or deep wound you create should be protected with Mastic. This is easy to find at any garden supply store and will grow out as the tree or shrub develops bark. If I have decided to actually cut an entire branch off, I tend to "shave" it clean, with any sharp implement, than apply the mastic. Do this right and you won't even know that a branch was there!

Looking for tree to bonsai

2009-07-13T10:39:00.000-07:00

This picture is one of design tree for bonsai.

mygardenbonsai

2009-07-13T10:38:00.000-07:00

On the ancient art of bonsai

Large Bonsai Tree

2009-06-19T10:26:00.000-07:00

There is a great of large bonsai tree in the world public places.

Maple Bonsai

2009-06-19T10:16:00.000-07:00

Bonsai plants can come from many different types of tress. Lots of bonsai masters however popularly use the Japanese maple. The leaves of this tree are impressively exquisite and the tree itself can last long if properly maintained.

Jared Pankin: Bonsai

2009-06-01T07:04:00.004-07:00

The exhibition title “Bonsai” aptly describes Pankin’s continued search of man’s investigation of and attempts to conquer nature. The word Bonsai has two divergent meanings; one being an expression of the adoptive cliché of an impulsive leap into the unknown while the other meaning refers to the historical oriental practice of manipulating horticulture. In this exhibition Pankin explores both meanings of Bonsai in his search of man’s place in nature.

Bonsai Trees Unique Beauty

2009-06-01T07:04:00.003-07:00

A bonsai tree has a unique beauty. It is almost like you take your favorite tree that you enjoy sitting under and shrink it down small enough to set on your table. By growing your own or shopping for the perfect bonsai tree, you can find one that reminds you of your favorite tree that you grew up enjoying.

Bonsai Potato Mouse Overall

2009-06-01T07:04:00.002-07:00

Bonsai Potato Mouse Overall

Ginkgo Bonsai

2009-06-01T07:04:00.000-07:00

Bonsai are under constant training and maintenance. Longwood in Pennsylvania choses to have as many bonsai on display as possible on any given day. You will view some bonsai in perfect order and some in various stages of training.

Made Indoor bonsai trees to decorate home

2009-05-20T20:36:00.000-07:00

The optimal choice of species must be considered when growing indoors as some species will have problems to adapt to the indoor environment and healthy bonsai tree depends on the type of indoor environment grows in. keep them near the sunny window in the house helps you grow properly tree and receive the proper attention to nutrition, but also must be placed so that they are not too close to the windows as this can heat bonsai trees and dry soil and nutrients in them. Indoor Bonsai trees to make wonderful view to HomeIndoor Bonsai trees in effect, make your home can see and provide a great picture to any room.

The first thing you have to consider when it begins to grow their own indoor bonsai trees is to select tree species that you will use. Selection of trees for use as bonsai plants require some considerations of geographical location and climate of the locality, as weather conditions at each location is different from others and, therefore, will have to choose trees that are local to your home or are easily adaptable to the conditions in your area. The best results are normally seen when you use plants or trees that are endemic to their location. The choice of alien species can cause the trees can not grow properly because of inability to adapt to the conditions in your area, although this is not always the case.

You should wait until you are completely familiar and an expert before considering the introduction of exotic plant for bonsai cultivation projects.Among other things to consider when growth of its bonsai trees is the size of the tree that it intends to grow . The trees come in various sizes in nature and this is the same for bonsai trees. You may wish to consider that in his house was placing the plant and must decide how big a plant should be there. Once you have an idea of their size you want your bonsai tree to be, then you can go to a nursery or specialty store and find a bonsai tree that is appropriate. However, if a bonsai nursery or store is not available in your area, you may just have to start from scratch and plant seeds of trees. This gives you the option to find seeds for the tree you like best and start there.Should to start from seed then you will need to plant seeds in bags until they become seedlings. As soon as plants begin to grow, you'll have to start preparing their seedlings to be transferred to pots. The transfer of seedlings in pots is difficult sometimes, and you will have to eliminate most of the roots to fit in small pots. When cutting the roots away, as in all the floors must be very careful because this effort can cause plants die. As we begin the process of transferring your bonsai in his pot plant, also will take place at some wires in the root system of the plant in order to help fit into your boat. You have to make sure that you have just put enough soil to cover its roots of bonsai plants that will help retain moisture. Make sure the amount of soil is produced along the roots and not too much. Choosing the Bonsai Tree IndoorsBonsai ideal for trees that are indoors tend to be beautiful and attractive when the plants in containers makes them even more delightful to see in any room. Most of these trees are, however, prepared with a lot of hard work and time experts who have studied the methods of cultivation and care of these types of bonsai plants. Most indoor bonsai trees are normally eight to twelve inches tall and are in fact most of the replicas of trees that are commonly found in parks and gardens. While the Chinese had begun cultivating bonsai trees is the Japanese who have taken this art form one step higher in both an art and a science. The Western world bonsai later become increasingly indulged after visits to Japan and since then have had a good number of experts practitioners.Like devoted to cultivating bonsai trees interior, the ability to choose the tree and Containers that allows them to curb the growth of bonsai plants at the right height and size can be done from home. It must also take the time and care to ensure that the proper nutrients and water is to provide as bonsai trees like all plants tend to grow better outdoors and indoors may increasingly become a challenge. It is therefore imperative that the soil is kept moist but not soggy and good temperatures and exposure to light as possible.

Grow your own bonsai

2009-05-20T20:28:00.000-07:00

Arce, zeikova, ginkgo or plants can be wonderful as bonsai. The best bonsai are created using plants that have small trunks and gnarled features. This type of plant can be purchased in a nursery or nature.There many potted bonsai designs, which is an important aspect when it comes to creating a tree. They generally are around 2 to 25 inches across and 1 to 10 inches deep. Some are made of clay pots, some are glass, but everybody should have the proper drainage holes.You can get different types of soil for bonsai, but the soil must be able to provide adequate moisture and food at the same time provide good drainage and allows plenty of airflow. Usually, the soil should be organized into different layers as soil properties. The topsoil is moss or small pebbles add to the aesthetics. The middle layer should be fairly thin and the bottom layer should be the coarsest of them all.Begin your bonsai project in the spring. This is the best time to start.

There not establish rules for cultivating a bonsai plant. Usually, you have to learn how to prune, thin, and pinch the growth over time. You need to control how the plant grows and create interesting lines. You can wrap the wire around branches to do this or add bars to influence the rigidity direction.It may be difficult initially to create a bonsai plant. This is normal and you must remember that the art of bonsai is full of discoveries. You can take years to fully understand how to do it correctly, but do not give up and follow these tips to create your own bonsai. Greg Hansward routinely publishes reports on the Internet on topics relating to storage tools and woodworking machinery. Working in his detailed written workbenches in wood and machinery writer affirmed its know-how in the field.

The Japanese and Chinese have been cultivating bonsai trees hundreds of years. These dwarves of potted plants have become very popular in the U.S. since World War II and is a wonderful artistic effort that requires patience and skill. You must think about your bonsai as a delicate balance between the plant itself and the vessel where it is held in The two must be perfectly melded together to create the beautiful miniature.The bonsai can be grown both outdoors in a pot or even or in the ground that exists in nature in the tropics. The dwarf pomegranate is one example. Only plants with small leaves to be used when creating a bonsai plant would otherwise be very strange compared to the trunk and branches. You have to put in new pots as your plant grows and changes. Sometimes you must report your bonsai up twice a year, but others need repotting only every few years. As a rule once a year is enough. You must do this in the same way that initially his pot plant each time.The best time to begin developing a bonsai is in the spring. Repotting is necessary because the plant is established and begins to grow. Some bonsai need repotting twice a year, others only every few years. The average is once a year. The process followed is the same as the original potting.

Bonsai during wintertime

2009-05-20T20:13:00.000-07:00

The winter period the Bonsai lost some leaves again. I think this is due to the lack of light during winter time. He also stopped blooming. But according to some forums this seems to be normal.

Technique For Make Bonsai

2009-05-01T03:28:00.000-07:00

Pruning

Pruning refers to the removal of branches that are usually too thick to be removed with scissors. This is not always the case in very small trees but works as a general idea of what tool to use when. Pruning is usually carried out in the winter when sap flow has all but stopped. Cuts should be sealed to prevent drying out of the wound. Japanese sealants come in two forms, a silicon based wound sealant that comes in a tube that is used for sealing od small cuts and cut paste that is a putty material that is used to seal larger wounds and the edges of jins and sharis. Both are best applied liberally as thiclk layers are easier to remove at a later date.
Most deciduous trees need to be sealed after pruning but many sappy trees such as pine, larch, spruce and fig will seal themselves. Any additional sealing only makes more of a mess.

Pinching

Pinching is carried out on most species when the new growth is still very soft. It is done on deciduous and coniferous species with the intention of inducing back-budding in order to create more branches to grow before the space between leaves becomes too great. As its name suggests pinching is done with finger and thumb, usually with the fleshy parts. If finger nails need to be used then scissors would be a better option. Pinching is most effective on coniferous species, especially Juniper and Spruce in order to form closely bunched pads of foliage. It is carried out in spring and early summer. Pine is also pinched but since pines respond in different ways to different amounts of shoot removal, it would be foolish to attempt to generalise. (See Pines for more details)

Trimming

By trimming I mean the removal of fairly new growth that has not has not yet hardened off but is too thick to pinch off. The obvious question here is "Why let growth get too long in the first place?" The simple answer is that some trees, notably Chinese Elm need to put on some growth so that the dormant buds at the base end of the branch have time to form. Removing the growth sooner will not produce back budding and will more than likely result in a dormant branch that will probably die back in the winter. This does not apply in all cases. Maples for instance are pinched back as soon as two leaves have appeared as the new buds have already formed in the leaf axils. Check the species guide for your trees requirements. If it is not covered it means I've not had time to write it yet but feel free to e-mail me.

Root pruning

Root pruning is the process by which we allow a tree to remain in a pot of a given size without it becoming root-bound. It is usually only carried out once a year at most, just before growth begins. It can be compared to the trimming and pinching above ground in that it has much the same effect. When a root is cut, the new growth will divide into two smaller, finer roots. Common-sense is the most important factor in carrying out this operation. Never root-prune a tree that looks sick unless you are certain that the problem lies in the roots themselves. Never leave a trees roots exposed to the elements for longer than you have to. Prepare the pot and mix the soil before working on the tree so that it can return to its home as quickly as possible. Having said that, don't be tempted to rush the job and just give the roots a quick trim.Comb out the roots carefully. Cut back any thicker roots that have little or no fine roots coming from them and remove any roots that are growing downwards from below the trunk. The aim is to achieve a system of fine roots radiating out from the base of the trunk. You'll know a good root system when you see one because it will have a beauty all its own.

Defoliation

Defoliation is a technique carried out on certain deciduous species, notably maples, to induce a second flush of leaves usually prior to showing. Removing all the leaves from a tree makes it think that it is spring all over again. It will produce a new, hopefully more plentiful supply of buds that will result in a balanced set of smaller leaves. This technique is not recommended for beginners. The timing is crucial and it should not be attempted on a tree that has been re-potted in the same year and should not be done every year. Some would argue that it does a tree good and creates vigour but this is often mistaken for the trees desperate fight for survival. Approach with care and seek expert advice if unsure.

Feeding

Fertilisers can be broadly split into two types. Chemical and Organic. Chemical simply means man-made and organic signifies that the contents are of a natural origin such as blood, fish and bone or rape seed. The common link between them is the way that all fertilisers are classified in terms of their content of three vital ingredients. They are Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium. This is referred to as the N:P:K ratio and appears on the side of the box as, for example 10:10:10. This ratio also gives an idea of the concentration when mixed to manufacturers recommendations. A ratio of 20:20:20 would be twice as strong. These are examples of balanced fertilisers, i.e. they have roughly equal amounts of each component in the mixture. Bonsai, because they are confined in a pot with varying levels of water and sometimes inadequate drainage, are best fed with a weaker dose than recommended.
I use Naruko 5-5-5 pellets or Bio Gold organic pellets as a general feeding regime and give extra weak liquid feeds in specific cases to trees with special requirements.
High Nitrogen feeds have their uses in promoting lots of growth in trees that are being grown on but beware of feeding to established trees as this will result in unwanted bushy growth. Proprietary Bonsai food is basically the same formula but a look at the ratio will reveal a weaker mixture that should be used at full strength. A ratio of 5:5:5 at full strength or 10:10:10 at half-strength or even 20:20:20 at quarter strength will work in exactly the same way.
Acid loving species such as Azaleas will need topping up with an ericaceous fertiliser to maintain the acid pH and iron levels.
Little and often is far better than a lot now and again. There is an argument for feeding every time you water with a much weakened solution. On the one hand trees will get fed in direct proportion to the amount of water being used. On the down side it is difficult to know what strength to use and to keep track of how much the trees are actually getting. If you have a lot of trees that are watered by hose-pipe then the logistics of the exercise also come into question.
Granular or pellet feeding overcomes this problem as they sit on the soil surface and slowly release feed. Traditional fish paste or rape seed feed cakes have problems with odour, maggots and fungus but the newer products such as Naruko and Bio Gold claim to avoid this.
In the Autumn when new growth needs to be hardened off before winter, I use tomato food or Chempak 0:10:10. The low nitrogen content stops fresh growth and the concentration of P and K help in hardening off.

Tools and Techniques for Bonsai

2009-05-01T03:27:00.000-07:00

Here is Tools and techniques for bonsai trees;

Scissors - It is a good idea to have at least two pairs of scissors. A long pair with fine tips will be useful for trimming small branches while a heavier pair with thicker blades and larger handles will be useful for trimming roots. Having separate tools for these two areas will help to prevent the spread of any disease.

Concave Branch Cutters - Available in several different sizes, the cutting head is curved so that when cutting branches a slightly hollowed out wound is produced. This shaped cut is ideally shaped to heal with a good chance of minimum scarring. Straight edged tools would leave the wound flat and resultant healing would produce a slight bump. They are widely used for general ranch cutting work but ar only suitable for removing small branches flush to the trunk.They are designed to be used from the side of the cut and are sometimes referred to as side cutters.

Knob cutters - Available in several different sizes they are similar to the concave cutters but go one step further and produces a spherical cut. They are designed to be used end on to a cut and get their name from their main use removing knobs or stubs of branches flush to the trunk. They are also useful for nibbling away chunks of wood prior to carving.

Wire cutters - Cutters with very strong tips are needed for removing wire from trees with the minimum of damage. Conventional wire cutters can be used in most cases but they must be a quality pair that would cost as much as custom made Japanese cutters anyway.

Jin Pliers - are designed with flat blades that are used for removing bark from jins. A cut is made through the bark around the base of the jin using a knife or branch cutters and then the jin pliers are used to squash the bark which seperates it from the wood beneath. The jin pliers can then be used to crush the end of the jin and grasp fibres that when stripped away will give a natural looking finish

Root Cutters - At repotting it is sometimes necessary, particularly with yamadori stock, to reduce large roots. Root cutters are designed like knob cutters but with flat blades and a much thicker blade that will stand up to the added wear and tear experienced in amongst the root ball

Trunk Splitters - An advanced tool used to split trunks or thick branches to allow bending or for seperating deadwood from a branch.

Root Hooks - A simple enough tool for combing out the root ball but one that will make repotting that much easier

Rakes, Tweezers, Spatulas - Mostly available in double ended combinations they are useful for a multitude of maintainance tasks.

Sieves - To get the best out of your potting Medium it should be sieved into its various sizes. Different grades can be used in a single pot with large particles on the bottom or if you have trees on different scales then different grades can be matched to the size of the tree.
Sieve sets come with 3 different sized interchangeable meshes to cater for all sizes.

Scoops - can be improvised but our Stainless steel Japanese set of 3 includes a mesh back in the largest which is invaluable for removing dust from top dressing material

Bending Jacks - Again can be improvised in more traditional ways but these small clamps have their uses

Turntables - A simple plastic turntable is invaluable for working on trees making it that much easier to move around the tree. Also useful under trees that require turnng on display benches to allow light to all areas.

Folding saw - For the removal of thick branches a quality saw is invaluable. A folding saw has the advantage that it can be carried easily when out collecting.

Feeding Bonsai Trees

2009-04-27T05:53:00.000-07:00

Only trees that have healthy, established root systems should be fed. For freshly repotted trees, commence fertilising using weak liquid feeds, at least one month after root pruning has been undertaken. When repotting trees, it is a good idea to add a small amount of slow release fertiliser granules to the soil mix. These will activate and provide a basic feed as the soil temperature rises, although supplementing with other feeds may be required later. Fertilisers contain three main elements - N.P.K. - nitrogen (for foliage), phosphorus (for roots) and potassium (for flowers). Therefore a fertiliser with an N.P.K. ratio of 10:5:5 has a high nitrogen content and will promote strong growth. To encourage flowering use feeds high in potash, such as bone meal, which can be sprinkled on the soil in the autumn. To harden off new growth for the winter, reduce the nitrogen content towards the end of the summer, switching to a feed such as tomato fertiliser and then to a specialist bonsai fertiliser with N.P.K. ratio of 0:10:10, containing no nitrogen.

Growing in such a small amount of soil, it is easy for a bonsai tree to become deficient when not fertilised adequately. Despite popular belief, bonsai are certainly not starved to keep them dwarfed! When to feed, what kind of fertiliser and how much all depend on the growth that is required. A young tree may need heavy feeding so that it grows vigorously and therefore a fertiliser with a high nitrogen content should be selected. However, a mature, well developed deciduous bonsai should be fed sparingly so that the fine tracery of twigs does not become thick and clumsy. You can control exactly how your tree grows by correct feeding.

Tips to Choose Pots Bonsai

2009-04-27T05:34:00.000-07:00

Pot will help to transform and complete the overall image of the bonsai tree. These are several guidelines for choosing pots for bonsai tree ;

literati trees are usually potted in round pots which can be primitive in design
cascade and semi cascade trees require deep pots, both for stability and visual balance
group plantings should be potted in large shallow pots or slabs of rock, allowing a natural landscape to be created
delicate trees can be matched with more fancy, dainty pots which may have ornate feet
small trees can be planted in large pots to create a more landscaped feeling: Conversely large trees can be effectively underpotted to appear more dominant and powerful
usually, the length of a pot should be approximately 2/3 the height of a tree, or if it is a wide, spreading bonsai, 2/3 of the width. Tall, thin trees may however look better in smaller pots
the depth of a pot should be roughly the diameter of the trunk base, therefore deep pots suit trees with thick trunks, whereas slender trunked trees or bonsai grown over a rock are best planted in shallower pots
pots can be made to appear shallower by visual tricks that break up the surfaces, thus deceiving the eye. Pot bands, inset rectangular outlines, studs and partial glazing all achieve this
highly glazed pots will soften in colour as time passes. This aging process can be speeded up by actually wiping the glaze with a dark staining wood scratch remover or similar fine oil
the pot should enhance the bonsai tree and not be overpowering or a dominant feature. It should harmonise and complement the characteristics of the tree, showing the bonsai off to its best advantage
never plant a tree in a bonsai pot if the roots will need to be drastically pruned in order to fit into the pot. If necessary reduce the root ball and pot size gradually over a period of years
bonsai pots must always have adequate drainage and be frost proof
the inside of a pot should be unglazed so that the roots can grip the interior firmly
conifers are most suited to unglazed pots in natural colours of browns and greys
deciduous trees lend themselves to either unglazed or glazed pots of all colours, although subtle, subdued shades are usually most appropriate. Consider how the pot will blend with any strong autumn colours
flowering trees are often planted in glazed pots of brighter colours, such as blues, creams, greens and whites
if you are unsure what pot colour to chose, select a shade that is similar to that of the tree's trunk
formally shaped trees look best in angular, straight edged pots with sharp corners, usually rectangular
less formal styles suit most shapes of pot, including rectangular with rounded corners, oval and round

Tips Care Bonsai Seasonal

2009-04-27T05:18:00.000-07:00

Spring is the time when new bonsai are started. It is the time for any pruning and training of last season’s bonsai. The plants then have a whole growing season to readjust to these changes. in the period of fall season, bonsai must be prepared to endure the approaching cold. Plant growth must be slowed.
Water plants less frequently to slow growth, and, when growth slows, reduce applications of fertilizers. Do not prune or cut any branches after mid-August. Do not use artificial night lighting (incandescent filament lamps) on plants after August 1. To reduce winter dieback of flowering trees and maples make light applications of 0-10-10 fertilizer. Bonsai are very sensitive and thrive best in localities that offer cool nights, sunny days, and mist or rain
almost daily. Most of the United States does not have this climate, so special provisions must be made to compensate for the lack of desired climatic conditions. Extremes in light, rain, and wind are to be avoided. Place your bonsai on a platform or table in your garden where the plants can receive 3 to 5 hours of direct sunlight a day. The site should be shaded, preferably in the afternoon. If the area is subject to drying winds, put up screening around the plants to protect them. Screening also serves to provide the plants with shade.
Water the entire bonsai — plant and soil — daily. If you skip even 1 day you can permanently damage the plant. Make sure your plants are located where rain can fall on them. However, plants should not remain wet or waterlogged for long periods.

A major problem in winter is to protect bonsai against low temperatures and drying winds. Bonsai can only
be left outdoors in climates where temperatures drop no lower than 28 F degrees. This is not the case throughout most of the United States, so a greenhouse, pit, or coldframe is necessary.

Winter frosts will seldom bother bonsai that are sheltered under the foliage of a spreading tree. Watch out, however, during the frost period for drying soil.

Coldframes

It is easy to construct a simple coldframe for bonsai. Before the ground is frozen, dig a hole at least 1-1/2 feet in the soil. Make the hole as long and as wide as you need for all your plants. Line the sides of this hole with exterior grade plywood, which extends 6 inches above the surface. Put 4 to 6 inches of gravel in the bottom of the hole, set your plant containers on this gravel, and spread straw around and over them. Put a loose-fitting cover on the frame made of polyethylene sheeting or any similar material.

Be sure the top of your coldframe is strong enough to withstand a heavy load of snow. Ventilate on days when the air temperature is above 40 F degrees to keep the plants cool and dormant.

To purchase a coldframe kit, check your local nurseries or see catalogs of mail-order garden supply houses.

Watering

In the summer, during hot weather when the temperature is over 90 F degrees, water the bonsai plants one or more times a day. If the plants are in an unusually sandy soil, they will require watering three or more times a day.

In early autumn, follow the watering directions for late spring. In late autumn, follow the watering directions for early spring.

In winter, keep the trees in a coldframe and ventilate the plants on one or more sides to keep them dormant. Check for dryness every 2 weeks. Water the plants every second day, or less, as required. Keep in mind that far more bonsai are killed by overwatering than by a lack of water.

Plant Bonsai Fertilizer

2009-04-27T05:13:00.000-07:00

To maintain plant bonsai growth use fertilizer to supply nutrients. Maintain the nutrient level in the soil mix throughout active growth with monthly applications of a diluted liquid fertilizer. Apply fertilizer only before and during active growth. For a liquid fertilizer you can use a typical house-plant fertilizer (20-20-20 or its equivalent) diluted to one-quarter strength on the label.

Tips Bonsai Tree

2009-04-27T05:02:00.000-07:00

Good base and surface roots often dictate the front of the tree, together with the main branches
a well developed root system and healthy tree are vital in the development of bonsai
shorten tall trees and increase taper by reducing height discreetly, replacing the leader with a suitable side branch, define and groom foliage masses by removing any downward growth, leaves or needles grow potential bonsai in the open ground for a few years if rapid thickening of the trunk is required don't train too many trees, otherwise the ones that deserve the most attention will not get enough if a branch snaps but does not break in half, do not despair. Secure the break back together and seal the wound. Thin foliage being supported beyond this break to reduce the demand on branch
work towards triangular outlines for most styles, with larger branches lower down
the top of almost all bonsai is the most vigourous area and so should be pruned harder. Exceptions to this are Azalea and Kiyohime maple.

Regularly thin the apex, so that branches in this area of the tree do not become too heavy and thick, spoiling the appearance
in most styles, positioning the apex of the tree directly over the base makes the bonsai appear well balanced
when styling, regularly refer to the front of the tree to avoid making any hasty pruning decisions
strategically place foliage at intervals in front of the trunk, so that the trunk line is not completely visible. This provides more interest and mystery!
do not be in to much of a hurry. Be patient and don't wish the years away!
main branches should be welcoming, as you might greet with your arms. They should not be going away.

Top / apex should lean slightly forward for most styles to give depth and perspective. This does not apply to formal uprights, ends of branches should not point up or downwards, but be level with the soil to create stability, at some time in most trees' lives, every single twig will need to be wired and carefully positioned. This will pay dividends as the tree matures in future years, always anchor wire securely, wire properly and neatly to ensure maximum bending strength, wire with more than one piece of wire if extra strength is needed.

Be watchful that wire doesn't bite in badly. Minor wire marks can sometimes add interest and show that the tree has been trained, giving branches character after several years. However, major wire marks are very, very ugly!

To note in stek rod bonsai

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To note in stek rod bonsai is conducted at the beginning of the season. take the bar marked with the number of healthy shoots and eye shape as you wish.that does not give it movement.sprinkling ongoing morning and evening on the trunks and soil, do not dry up until the soil.to maintain soil moisture and use a stem with a cloth used.

Growth trees for Bonsai

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How to growth tree for bonsai.

Bonsai styles trees

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Basic styles of bonsai are the classic (koten) and the informal or 'comic' (bunjin). In the former, the trunk of the tree is wider at the base and tapers off towards the top; it is just the opposite in the 'bunjin', a style more difficult to master.

Bonsai Tool Rool

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Cordura nylon bonsai tool rool

Bonsai Pots

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BONSAI POTS:CASCADE BONSAI POTS

OUTDOOR BONSAI TREES

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OUTDOOR BONSAI TREES:TSUKUMO CYPRESS

Bonsai - Chinese peashrub

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Caragana sinica, the Chinese peashrub, is readily adapted to bonsai. Grow from pre-soaked seed, in very good light and well-drained soil.

Rhododendron bonsai

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Rhododendron specimen grown as bonsai. Propagate by cuttings in summer, or by layering. Requires well-drained, acidic soil, and good light but avoid full sun.

Japanese maple bonsai

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Japanese maple bonsai.

Bonsai miniature Japanese beech forest

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Bonsai miniature Japanese beech forest.

Potted Bonsai Tree

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Potted bonsai tree.

Privacy Policy for www.mygardenbonsai.blogspot.com

2009-04-13T08:15:00.000-07:00

Privacy Policy for www.mygardenbonsai.blogspot.com If you require any more information or have any questions about our privacy policy, please feel free to contact us by email at nor.hida@yahoo.com. At www.mygardenbonsai.blogspot.com, the privacy of our visitors is of extreme importance to us. This privacy policy document outlines the types of personal information is received and collected by www.mygardenbonsai.blogspot.com and how it is used. Log FilesLike many other Websites, www.mygardenbonsai.blogspot.com makes use of log files. The information inside the log files includes internet protocol ( IP ) addresses, type of browser, Internet Service Provider ( ISP ), date/time stamp, referring/exit pages, and number of clicks to analyze trends, administer the site, track user’s movement around the site, and gather demographic information. IP addresses, and other such information are not linked to any information that is personally identifiable. Cookies and Web Beacons www.mygardenbonsai.blogspot.com does not use cookies. Some of our advertising partners may use cookies and web beacons on our site. Our advertising partners include Google Adsense. These third-party ad servers or ad networks use technology to the advertisements and links that appear on www.mygardenbonsai.blogspot.com send directly to your browsers. They automatically receive your IP address when this occurs. Other technologies ( such as cookies, JavaScript, or Web Beacons ) may also be used by the third-party ad networks to measure the effectiveness of their advertisements and / or to personalize the advertising content that you see. www.mygardenbonsai.blogspot.com has no access to or control over these cookies that are used by third-party advertisers. You should consult the respective privacy policies of these third-party ad servers for more detailed information on their practices as well as for instructions about how to opt-out of certain practices. www.mygardenbonsai.blogspot.com's privacy policy does not apply to, and we cannot control the activities of, such other advertisers or web sites. If you wish to disable cookies, you may do so through your individual browser options. More detailed information about cookie management with specific web browsers can be found at the browsers' respective websites.

Garden Bonsai

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Bonsai must be placed in an area where enough light is available. If a bonsai fails to have enough UV rays, it dries. The bonsai needs warmth in the daytime - at least 60 degree Fahrenheit and the humidity to flourish. Regular spraying on the leaves with water is mandatory. However, bonsai can never be placed in a saucer or tray filled with water, as this can rot the roots. At night what the bonsai needs most is cooling down as it occurs in the nature as well.

Bonsai containers should be shallower than normal indoor pots used for plants. So if fertilizer is added dilution is to be accordingly otherwise the fertilizer will burn the roots. Bonsai should be fed this fertilizer about once every three weeks - but it should not be fed in winter.